BIKO marvels at having Chef Ryan Theja join our growing family with his first joint venture, Costa. Housed in the bustling Gunawarman neighborhood, the establishment opened its doors to the public on 3 February 2025. Now that the excitement of the opening week has settled, we had the chance to sit down with the chef for a more casual conversation. His stories are of the land, the ocean and everything in between.
“Chef Ryan Theja. We're not here to talk about Costa. Instead, we're gonna talk about you. Who are you? Where do you come from?“
He started with a chuckle. “I am just a man who loves to eat!” His statement was as firm as he is, which requires no more why?—though we'll eventually learn about it as the conversation unfolded. He began talking about his childhood, which, in hindsight, was the perfect place to start. ”I was born and raised in Lombok. Heck, my house was just 400 meters away from the shore! So seafood, fishing—it’s not something I had to learn. It’s just in me. Whether I want it or not, it became a part of my identity.”
But what really stood out as he spoke was the way food connected his family. “We'd always eat dinner together at 9 PM. I know it's pretty late (chuckles). But my family owned a shop, and we'd only finish closing around eight. That made 9 PM our time. Every night. And food was never ordinary—it was always plentiful. Fish, meat, veggies—everything that required a lot of time in the kitchen.” There was a reverence in his voice when he spoke about those dinners. We believe it was something deeper than just the food.
“My mom said I used to follow her around the kitchen, always asking to be included in the process. I don't remember all that. But like the sea, maybe food was just in me. Maybe my family knew that all along. They have always been big on sports, even my dad was an athlete. But when I decided to pursue a higher education (and later a career) in culinary, they supported me. There was no hesitation. And for that, I consider myself very lucky.”
“What is your value?“
We figured, knowing one's value is one of the easiest way of seeing how a person lives, and we were right. It only took Chef Ryan one second before he firmly answered “I think, the more friends you have, the richer you are. But don't get me wrong. It wasn't that I see friends as a commodity. It's the other way around. I believe no one gets to live life truly without the help of friends. Friends help you get by.“
Knowing the heat of every kitchen, it wasn’t the kind of flashy motto you'd expect from a chef. But as soon as he said it, we understood. More than a chef, Ryan Theja wants to be regarded as a friend. His responses are always about the people. “I live to eat, not the other way around. Cooking just happened to be the thing I loved,” he said, almost sheepishly. “I didn’t set out to be a chef. I just wanted to eat good food. I wanted the people I care about to eat good food. It is truly as simple as that.”
“Who is your inspiration?“
He told us about a chef he met in Australia—a chef who chose to remain anonymous. “He’s the heart of the restaurant, but you’d never know it. He doesn’t want to be known. He doesn’t want his picture taken. What’s important is that the customers leave happy. Full. That’s it. Let them wonder.” As he spoke, we realized that this story wasn’t just about the anonymous chef—it was a window into Chef Ryan’s own philosophy. He, too, wanted to create experiences where the food spoke for itself, where the focus wasn’t on him, but on the joy and satisfaction of his guests.
Despite all that, Ryan admitted that he can't see himself doing anything else outside of hospitality. It is his lifelong purpose. “If I weren't in the kitchen, at least I’d be in the back office, planning my next restaurant and making sure the business is a good one.“ said the chef. “Like what I did with Costa, minus the cooking. But anyway, I love the planning part!“
“Right. Costa. This is your first project with BIKO. Are you satisfied?“
“I am!” There’s a tone in his voice that assures you of its gravity. “I've always wanted to cook something I’m familiar with, which is seafood. And I get to do that here. That said, I think it’s a safe playground for me. But I’m just getting started. This is only the beginning of many good things ahead. I’m looking forward to creating new concepts and exploring areas that are now foreign to me. Until then, I’m learning and trying my best to serve the customers here at Costa.”
By the end of our conversation, the chef said thanks before heading back to the kitchen. It was almost 4 PM, just in time for prep before Costa's first service, which starts at 5:30 PM. Within the 30 minutes of our conversation, we learned a lot—about the chef, his life, and strangely, friendship. But above all, what struck us the most is the fact that behind his every great dish, Chef Ryan Theja is just as human as the rest of us. What better way to start becoming his friends?
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COSTA Land & Ocean opening hours:
Mon - Fri: Dinner time from 5.30 PM onwards
Sat - Sun: Lunch time 11.30 AM - 3.30 PM | Dinner time from 5.30 PM onwards
Follow @costajkt on Instagram for more information.
